Choosing a Purebred Kitten – What To Look For

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  • At a glance

    1. Visit cat shows
    2. Choose a registered breeder
    3. Ask if the cat or kitten comes with a health guarantee
    4. Keep a check on emotions
    5. Research the breed ahead of time
    6. Search the Internet for the cat breeder and prefix
    7. Look for signs of good health, and signs of a sick cat
    8. Meet the mother (queen) and if possible, the father (sire)
    9. Ask the breeder a lot of questions
    10. Expect the breeder to ask a lot of questions
    11. Watch for online scammers

    Finding a breeder

    It is important you find a breeder you are comfortable with. Choose a breeder who is registered with a local or international cat body.

    Visit cat shows:

    Cat shows are a great place to meet the different cat breeds and talk to cat breeders. You won’t be able to take a kitten home on the day, but cat shows can be a great starting point.

    Why a registered breeder?

    You will not be supplied with the cat’s papers, and you don’t know anything about the cat’s history. Almost all unregistered breeders offer no guarantee with kittens they sell, many don’t perform routine checks on their animals, nor do they DNA test for genetic diseases.

    Most breeders sell kittens microchipped, treated for parasites, fully vaccinated and already desexed. This saves you time running around organising it yourself and also saves money because breeders can pass on their veterinary discounts and therefore save you money.

    What to look for in a cat breeder

    • Doesn’t breed multiple breeds or more cats than they cannot properly care for: Some great breeders have multiple breeds, and as long as they can meet all of the cat’s physical, medical and emotional needs, that is fine. Animal husbandry is expensive and time-consuming. There is more to raising kittens than feeding and cleaning up after them, they need plenty of positive social interaction as well as exposure to common household sounds (vacuum cleaners, dishwashers, washing machine, television etc) to develop into well-adjusted adults.
    • Experience: The breeder should be knowledgeable about the breed and open about specific health issues which can affect specific breeds
    • Encourages you to meet the kitten and parents and show you around the property: Be wary of breeders who don’t want you to visit their property, or breeders with multiple litters of kittens.
    • Breeds to the breed standard: The aim of a breeder should be to produce kittens who are an accurate representation of the breed which not only includes looks but personality too.
    • Guarantees: Does the breeder guarantee the health of the kitten and if so, for how long? Would they be willing to take the kitten or cat back if you can no longer care for it?
    • Support: Once you have the kitten, can you call or email with any questions?
    • Keep a check on emotions: Don’t buy a kitten just because you feel sorry for him because he looks sick or unhappy. You may think you re doing the right thing by getting the kitten out of such an environment, but in the long run, you are not doing any favours. By lining the pockets of unregistered and or unethical breeders who don’t take proper care of their animals, you are just encouraging them to continue by buying their stock. Once again, you will often end up hugely out of pocket with veterinary bills etc. If you are unsure if a breeder is registered with the cat body, they claim to be, ask for proof of registration. If they won’t supply this, go elsewhere.

    Choosing the right breed for you

    Think about what you are looking for in a cat. Do you want one who is always by your side, or would you prefer a more independent type of cat? What about coat length? Do you want a longhaired cat or a shorthaired cat? The following articles may help you to choose the perfect breed to suit your needs.

    How much does a purebred kitten cost?

    Prices of pedigree cats can vary on the quality and the breed.

    Breeders sometimes sell cats who may have a minor flaw. This can be incorrect eye colour, a slight kink in the tail, or a white spot that doesn’t meet the breed standard. These don’t have any effect on his health or personality. So, if you are buying a pedigree cat just as a pet and you don’t plan to show or breed, a pet quality cat is perfect. These are cheaper than show and breeding quality cats. When you speak to the breeder, let her know exactly what you want your cat for. If you want to show your cat, you will pay a little more for a show quality cat. Generally, breeding cats are the most expensive to buy.

    Less common breeds also tend to be more expensive. It costs a lot of money to obtain breeding stock, particularly with newer or rare breeds that often have to be imported from overseas. As a general rule of thumb, expect to pay $800 for a more readily available breed such as a Burmese, and upwards of $1,000-2,000 plus for less common breeds.

    What to look for in a healthy and happy kitten

    If possible look at the parents as well as the kittens, their nature will give you a good indication of what their kitten’s character will be like. Do the cats appear happy and healthy?

    When you are deciding on a kitten give him a discreet look over, check his ears, eyes, bottom, and nose. Look at the cat in the photo above, who looks healthy.

    Assessing the health of a kitten

    You may not be a veterinarian, but it is still possible for prospective buyers to check the kitten over and evaluate his or her health and personality. Kittens are energetic, playful and curious, they should be confident enough to want to come over and say hello.


    Healthy eyes on a Burmese cat

    Clear and vibrant, there is no crusting or discharge either from the eyes or the nose. Never buy a kitten with discharge coming from the eyes or nose or dirty ears.

    Gums and teeth:

    Healthy gums and teeth on a Tonkinese kitten

    Healthy pink colour with clean white teeth and no bad breath.


    Healthy coat on a Bengal cat

    The coat should look and feel healthy; you should not see or feel any dry skin, scabs, bald patches or signs of fleas. There should not be a greasy feel to the coat, which could mean the kitten has not been properly groomed by his mother.

    Body condition:

    Good body composition

    Looks and feel well-nourished, and not be scrawny (there’s a difference between scrawny and slender, as some breeds naturally are). The belly should be round, but not pot-bellied (which is a sign of roundworms).


    The kitten should be confident and outgoing. Most kittens either going at 100% or sleeping. They should be comfortable with strangers and curious.

    Many breeders will ask you a lot of questions; this is because they have raised these kittens from birth and want to make sure that they are going to the best possible home and that you, the buyer are fully aware of the responsibility of owning an animal that can live for up to 20 years.

    What questions will the cat breeder ask me?

    Do you plan for the kitten to be indoors only?
    Many breeders won’t sell their kittens to people who plan to let their cats outside, unless they are either supervised, in an enclosure or on a harness. Too many cats are killed on the roads, or by other animals.

    Will you be breeding from this cat?

    If not, the breeder may well desex the kitten before you take him home.

    Do you have other pets, if so, how many and what type?

    The breeder needs to know what the kitten’s home life will be like. When we were interviewed by the breeder of our Singapura cat, she questioned us about our current cats and their personality to make sure they would be a suitable for the kitten we wanted to adopt.

    How much time do you spend at home?

    If you are out for long hours daily, the breeder may recommend you get a second cat. This is because a cat left for long hours daily will get lonely and could even become destructive.

    One final comment, responsible breeders, go to a great deal of effort to keep their cattery disease-free, so please show a little respect when you go to visit a kitten and don’t go directly from one cattery to another. This is especially important when you are handling young kittens as their immune systems are not fully developed.

    What questions should I ask the cat breeder?

    When you go to choose a kitten, it is important to ask her what you get for your money. The most common questions are:

    • Does the kitten come desexed?
    • Does the breeder regularly check her cats for infectious diseases? Such as FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency virus) and FeLV (Feline Leukaemia).
    • Does the breeder screen for inherited genetic conditions specific to the breed?
    • How many vaccinations has the kitten had? When is its next one due? You should get a signed vaccination certificate from the breeder.
    • Does the kitten come microchipped?
    • Has the kitten been regularly wormed?
    • Does the kitten come with official cat club registration papers? If so, do you get the papers when you pick up your kitten or when you show proof the kitten has been desexed? Will the pedigree be transferred into YOUR name or kept in the breeder’s name? Some owners don’t mind what name the official pedigree remains in, while others do. It is better to sort this out before money has exchanged hands.
    • Does the breeder offer any medical guarantee for the first few days after you have taken the kitten home?
    • Is the breeder registered and if so, with whom?
    • Are they willing to provide you with help and advice AFTER you have taken the kitten home?
    • Is the kitten you’re buying a pet, show or breeding quality?
    • If you want to show your cat, make sure you specify this to the breeder in advance. When you collect your cat, ensure you have the official cat club pedigree, and that it is in YOUR name.
    • Get everything in writing, so if there is a dispute at a later date you have evidence of health guarantees, promises made by the breeder. This may help your cause if you have to take either legal action or contact the breeder’s official cat club.

    Watch for scammers


    Sadly some people use the Internet as a way to scam people who are looking for a cat or kitten. Do your homework!

    I recently responded to a classified advertisement for a corgi puppy. I am aware that these dogs are rare, so was quite surprised when the seller told me she had four puppies available and could freight one to me immediately. When asked if they were registered and what her prefix was, she chose to ignore my question. She wanted immediate cash payment into her bank account.

    Warning signs:

    • An anonymous name such as Jane Smith or Paul White
    • A free email service, gmail or hotmail
    • Trying to push you into a quick sale
    • Wanting cash (I was told by this person her bank doesn’t accept direct deposit, ALL banks accept direct deposit)
    • No online presence or results (I Googled her name, and nothing came back). Not all cat breeders have a website (and with so many options, it’s easy for a scammer to set one up). But cat breeders DO exhibit their cats at shows, so once you have their prefix (see below), you can search for the name, and you should see show results.

    All registered cat breeders have a prefix, which is the name the cattery has registered with the appropriate cat council. If a breeder can not provide you with their registered name AND the cat council who holds the registration, they are either a backyard breeder and/ or, they are scamming you.

    There seem to be more and more ‘cat registrars‘ appearing who accept fees from breeders, but little more. When checking cat registrars (cat councils), the website should provide information on who is running the organisation. Who is the president, vice president, board of directors? Is there an address and contact name and number? If this information isn’t readily available, look elsewhere. Below are links to recognised and legitimate cat councils. 

    Some of the more well-known cat councils include:

    • CFA (Cat Fanciers Association)
    • TICA (The International Cat Association)
    • GCCF (Governing Council of the Cat Fancy)
    • WCF (World Cat Federation)
    • FIFe (Fédération Internationale Féline)


    • ACF (Australian Cat Federation)
    • NSWCFA (New South Wales Cat Fanciers Association)
    • ANCATS (Australian National Cats Inc.)
    • QFA (Queensland Feline Association)

    When you find a breeder

    Ask for their prefix (the name of their cattery) and search for the name with Google (or another search engine)

    • Search for the breeder by name. Ie; Jane Doe, RaggyRagdoll Cattery.
    • Be wary of breeders who try to rush you into buying a kitten.
    • Always leave a paper trail when it comes to payment. Don’t pay cash.
    • If it is an online listing with photos, save the photo to your computer by right-clicking, do a reverse image search in Google.
    • Search for their prefix on Facebook, do they have a Facebook page for their cattery? Read comments on their page and look for reviews.

    Things to buy for your new cat

    Before your kitten comes home, you will have to buy a few items.

    • A cat bed, with or without a blanket.
    • Cat toys, most cats love toy mice, but even basic homemade toys can provide hours of entertainment. Anybody who has owned a cat knows how much pleasure they get out of hiding in paper bags and cardboard boxes. They also enjoy batting around a screwed up piece of paper.
    • Food bowls. Stainless steel, china or glass are preferable to plastic bowls. You will need at least two — one for food and one for water. Clean, fresh water MUST be available at all times.
    • Litter tray. I like to buy small-sized trays to start with. I feel the larger ones can be a little too overwhelming for a tiny kitten. You can upgrade to a larger one once the kitten has grown. It is best to start by using the same cat litter the breeder used. If you want to change this, do it gradually over a few days by mixing in a little of your preferred litter. There is a lot of controversy over clumping litter, and it is not our place to pass judgment on such matters. It is up to you to become informed and choose which kind of litter suits you best. That said if you are planning to use clumping litter, at least wait until the kitten has grown up. Clumping litter should not be used with kittens.
    • Scratching post.

    Choosing a veterinarian

    Find a veterinarian both you and your cat can trust, a fear-free or cat-friendly practice, both of which are techniques animal healthcare workers practice to make the veterinary visit as stress-free as possible. You will build a relationship with your vet that will last for up to 20 years. Ask friends and neighbours who they use. Your breeder may be able to recommend a vet in your area.

    What the breeder will supply

    You are now about to go home with your new kitten, but before you do, have you found out the diet that the kitten has been having and will need to have for a while when you get it home? What type of litter it has been used to.

    Almost all breeders will give you a starter kit to go with your kitten. It generally includes a small sample pack of the food the kitten has been used to eating, a diet sheet and any other information you need to know relating to the kitten’s care.

    Ensure you have a proper cat carrier to take your kitten home. You will use this quite often as you take your cat back and forth to the vets over time.

    The first few days at the new home

    Now that you have your kitten home, there are several things to remember. Your kitten may be quite timid for a few days; this is normal. Make sure that you have the kitten in one quiet room of the house to start with so it can get used to that room and then allow it to explore from there. If you can, have the kitten with you for the first few nights as it will need the company to help him get over the shock of suddenly being on its own. A hot water bottle wrapped in a towel and a ticking clock can often help settle your kitten down.

    Feeding your new kitten

    Your kitten may not eat for the first 24 hours, so don’t be too worried if this happens. He will soon get over his reluctance to do so. I have found that small juicy tidbits like cooked chicken meat are very good for this, especially when given on my knee.

    • Never give your cat cooked chicken bones.
    • Don’t give your cat food straight from the fridge, warm it up a little in the microwave first, but be careful it’s not so hot the kitten burns his mouth.
    • If you want to give your kitten milk, you can buy specially formulated cat milk from the supermarket. This is lactose-free. Cats often have a problem with the lactose in cow’s milk, and it can upset their tummy.

    If you have any problems, your kitten’s breeder should be more than willing to offer you over the phone support. Most breeders will give you a diet sheet, try to stick to this because a sudden change in diet can upset a cat’s tummy. If you don’t wish to feed the food, the breeder has been using then SLOWLY introduce your chosen brand of food over a few days.


    Isolate your kitten in a quiet room for a few days to let him settle in. Do not allow contact with other cats you may already have for a week or two. Hold off doing this until your new kitten has had a thorough check-up with your vet and been given a clean bill of health.

    Kitten proofing

    Kittens can get into all sorts of trouble, so it is important to cat-proof your home before the new arrival. Make sure the toilet seat and lid are down at all times. Many kittens have drowned in the toilet. If you have houseplants, make sure they are nontoxic to cats.

    Make sure cupboard doors are closed at all times and never leave the washing machine or dryer door open. Keep medicines and poisons in a child-proof cupboard.

    I STRONGLY recommend taking your new kitten to your vet for a checkup within a day or so of bringing him home. This way, if there are problems with his health, they can be picked up quickly, and you can contact the registered breeder. If s/he has sold you a sick kitten, they should either pay the vet’s bills or take the kitten back and give you a full refund. If your kitten is sick, ask the vet to put it down in writing so you can pass this information onto the breeder. Make sure you take a photocopy for your records.

    Frequently asked questions

    Do purebred cats have papers?

    Cat breeders can register an entire litter or each kitten, it is up to them. When transferring a purebred kitten to the new owners, some breeders give out no registration papers, some will provide their own registration papers and some will provide the ‘official’ cat council registration papers. The cat can be transferred from the breeder’s name into your name with the cat council, this is up to the breeder and will incur a small fee.

    It is important to discuss registration papers with the breeder before money has changed hands. I have personally been given papers for all of my purebred cats, and all breeders have signed the pedigree so that I can transfer the cat(s) into my own name (with the cat council, not local government departments). But there is no need to do this unless you plan to show the cat.

    Are purebred cats unhealthy?

    Purebred cats should be as healthy as a random-bred cat. Some breeds can have inherited genetic diseases, but most of these can be tested for. Even random-bred cats can inherit genetic diseases from one or both parents.


    • Julia Wilson, 'Cat World' Founder

      Julia Wilson is the founder of Cat-World, and has researched and written over 1,000 articles about cats. She is a cat expert with over 20 years of experience writing about a wide range of cat topics, with a special interest in cat health, welfare and preventative care. Julia lives in Sydney with her family, four cats and two dogs. Full author bio